I HAVE been to Brazil twice, and loved every minute that I spent there. The first time, I lived there for several months; the second, I traveled the length and breadth of the country.
The first time, my then husband, Anthony, and I lived in a small town called Pitangueira, about four hours by very slow train from Sรฃo Paulo city, which reminded me of Detroit with palm trees. Anthony had come to Pitangueira to fumigate the orange trees belonging to the Vestys of Liverpool, and we had traveled in a ship that also belonged to them. We were the only passengers on the voyage, apart from a bunch of malicious swans who occupied the two upper decks, biting everyone who came too close to their cages; and a majestic bull and his keeper. The bull was destined for Buenos Aires, where he was to be sold; I remember that the bullโs keeper resembled the bull. During the two weeks of the crossing we played Monopoly every afternoon and evening with the captain.




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